akodo1

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  1. For me, part of the joy of the game is looting and finding new stuff. The problem comes when out of a set of 6 or 10 or whatever only 1 or 2 are noteworthy and the rest are 'only use until you find something better'. I'm not even talking B level until you find A level, I'm talking there's too much C level stuff. Yea, who cares if you find a fleece cowl or a long wool scarf, you either want a Balaclava or a Wool Toque or if you are going efficient you want a cotton touque and wool scarf. So in that sense yea there are too many but only because they made too many non-interesting. Same with most of the shirts. This doesn't mean variety is bad, what it means is how the game is using stats is bad.
  2. I was torn on if it was worth including the ice fishing gloves/mittens. In hindsight maybe i'd drop the both the "snowmobile gloves" and "Expedition Mittens" for the matching ice fishing gloves. While there's a lot of snowmobiling that goes on,, not sure how many people would have expedition mittens around. On the other hand, ice fishing is very common. Right now there are 6 non-crafted non-storyline specific gloves/mittens. If I had to get this list down to 6 it would be 1. Leather Work Gloves 2. Chore Gloves 3. Insulated Fleece Gloves 4. Wool Mittens 5. Ski Gloves 6. Chopper Mitts
  3. I've lived all my life in either Wisconsin or Minnesota, so I'm very familiar with what winter is like and what is available. For starters - I dislike how clothing stats at 0.1 lb and then moves to 0.25lb, then 0.5 lbs , switching from 0.1 to .25 increments doesn't make sense to me because often it makes the very light clothing have a better warmth/weight ratio. I see on reason why weight shouldn't be 0.1 increments But what really bothers me is the options you have for hands. There are SOO MANYT MITTENS and in actuality, mittens aren't very common. The only mittens of note are knitted mittens for little kids, big thick hearty mittens for skiing/snowboarding, and leather chopper mitts. I rarely see anyone wearing mittens, I rarely see mittens for sale. Here's what I see and suggest. Below I've tried to cover the whole gamut but here's what I'd put in the game. I've stacked them from least to most warm. - (trait) means they are below average on that + (trait) means they are exceptional at that. Traits I'm seeing are : durability, windproof, waterproof, not loosing insulation value when wet, protection or armor 1. Cotton work gloves - wind, - water - wet - protection 2. Leather work gloves -wet +durability + protection 3. knit gloves - wind, - wet - durability 4. knit mittens - wind, - wet - durability (thin fleece gloves -wet) 5. Chore gloves - wet (lined leather gloves -wet +durability + protection) (lined knit mittens - durability) (neoprene ice fishing gloves +wind, ++water, ++ wet) 6. Insulated fleece gloves - wet (Glomit +wet + durability) 7. Ski gloves + wind +water - wet 8. hiking mittens + wind +water - wet 9. Wool mittens ++ wet 10. Snowmobile gloves +wind + water - wet (Winter Ice fishing gloves +wind ++ water +wet +protection) 11. Chopper mitts + wind + water, ++ wet, + durability + protection (Ice Fishing Mittens +wind, ++ water, +wet + protection) 12 .Expedition mittens ++wind + water -wet +protection Cotton Work Gloves - For gardening, construction, farmwork, these keep your hands from being blistered. They are fairly cool in the summer as the air moves through them fairly easily. You will find these everywhere, at the gas station, grocery store, not just where clothing is normally sold. They will give your hands some protection during the winter but not that much. Gives warmth but no protection from wind, when wet, and no 'armor'. These should be the hand-ware you find everywhere. Leather Work Gloves - for harder work on the farm like putting in fence posts, working with barbed wire, bailing hay. They'd give only a slight bit more warmth but more wind protection and 'armor' Chore Gloves/ Winter Chore Gloves - These were the winter weather cousins to the cotton work gloves, they were made thicker to be more warm and had a bit of windproofing Lined Leather Gloves - the winter equivalent of the leather work glove Knit Gloves - these are simple not very durable winter gloves. Quite stretchable so one size fits most and unisex in theory but heavily dependent on the color. I'd stat them as slightly warmer than the cotton working gloves for warmth but giving no wet/wind/or armor Lightweight Fleece Gloves - Medium weight fleece is an okay insulator on it's own and makes a nice glove, but more of a fall choice, not for deep winter Neoprene ice fishing gloves - 100% waterproof neoprene or similar materials sometimes over thin fleece for a bit of warmth. Your hands will stay dry and the gloves will maintain a strong grip no matter how wet they are or what you are trying to hold (like a squirming fish) - or at least that's the add copy. Glomitts - You can expose your fingertips or keep them covered with the mitt flap. Generally well insulated, but the finger flap just doesn't keep your fingertips as warm as a regular glove or mitten. But being wool - they tend to keep you warm even when wet. Insulated Fleece Gloves - Standard winter wear if you aren't working. Generally will have 40 grams of thinsulate or similar insulation. Will keep you warm, good against the wind, but get wet easy , no 'armor' Ski Gloves - as above (generally 40 grams of thinsulate, it's really rare to see less or more) but more windproof and waterproof. However, once wet, does little to keep you warm. Snowmobile Gloves / Extreme Cold Gloves (or use Gauntlet - which refers to how much past the wrist they come, good for keeping snow out when you are snowmobiling) - more insulation than your basic ski glove, especially on the back of the hand area and a long gauntlet to keep the snow from getting inside. Ice Fishing Winter Gloves - all the features and insulation of the above gloves, but 100% waterproof. Designed to give you good grip even when wet or grasping wet, slippery items (like fish) Knit Mittens - slightly warmer than the knit gloves because your fingers are together, more intended for the walk from your car to the shopping mall than for deep winter exploring Lined Knit Mittens - takes the fashion sense of the knit mitten and adds a layer inside to provide an increase in warmth Wool Mittens - Using a double layer of ragg wool mittens like these keep your hands warm. They tend to get wet, but as it's wool it still gives some warmth Waterproof Mittens / Hiking Mittens/ - Analogous to the ski gloves but slightly warmer. Good wind protection, doesn't get wet easily, but once wet does very little to keep you warm. Chopper Mitts - Durable leather outer covering thick wool insulation inside (often removable for easy-dry), the idea here is you get durability and warmth but no manual dexterity. Perfect for chopping wood in the middle of January. Ice Fishing Mittens - Extremely well insulated to keep you warm sitting exposed on the ice even in severe wind. 100% waterproof. Designed to have good grip even when wet. Expedition Mittens - these are what you wear when at the Arctic or Antarctic, designed for extreme colt protects you from wind and moderate moisture, but isn't really designed to handle getting soaked
  4. Snow Shoes and to a degree skis are designed to allow you to walk on top of snow without sinking in. If you've ever tried to walk in deep snow it is exhausting and you get wet from pockets to ankles. That kind of snow isn't implemented in TLD so snowshoes don't really fit.
  5. I remember the days when that 3 kg rabbit carcass was too heavy to move so you had to stand in a blizzard to butcher it. Now we can scoop up the rabbit. I WISH we would get similar changes to the metal boxes and plastic boxes found around the game. They would make organizing my meat piles so much easier. Specifically I'd have it so you only get the prompt to pick it up if it has been both searched AND made empty. However, I think any method of allowing it to be moved would be great. IIRC people have done in game tests on meat decay rates outside on the ground vs outside in a container....and it stays longer inside a container. If that is the case, then how about allowing us to move ONE KIND of container but having it not keep meat fresher. I know this isn't the first time this request has been made. I'd really be intersted in hearing what kind of game balance is risked if it were to be implemented.
  6. i too agree just like burning an unread book eating raw meat drinking unsafe water should give a warning. In game screen cooked vs raw meat looks very similar Unfortunately, this I think gets brought up a lot
  7. I don't recall exactly, around the curve? I was not trying to walk exactly on the 'rail' itself. Is that supposed to be necessary?
  8. Yes, the bridge out of ML. I've fallen through every time....which is only twice. I stopped trying that way after that.
  9. It used to be in video games going down ladders were often more dangerous than boss-fights because it was often difficult to start going down them without falling off. I thought of that as I fell through the bridge. Do you guys think Hinterlands really purposely designed the bridge so there was a massive risk of fall-through? Or do you think that it was an 'accident of design' that they ended up purposely keeping? Or do you think it was an accident of design they just haven't fixed yet?
  10. I used to hunt deer on a regular basis. Nowadays I work in an industry that gets extremely busy building up for 'Black Friday' and then extremely busy for a few weeks after, this means deer season often falls outside my schedule. The rifle I bought myself was a Remington 700 in 7mm Remington Magnum, when I was young and foolish and thought I'd be regularly able to hunt elk and other bigger game as well. I've thought of buying a rifle in 257 Roberts or 25-06 as there is no need for the extra power of the 7mm Rem Mag, not for the biggest white tail or mule deer, so all it does is add unnecessary expense, recoil, and noise. However, deer season with my current job is enough of an unlikely event I have not yet made this change. I have a CZ-526 in 223 I've taken coyote hunting as that I can do when work slows down. I've never successfully bagged a yote yet though. I have a winchester 1300 12 gauge, done some pheasant hunting when a friend had a bird dog. It's hard to do without a bird dog. Also have a rifle sighted barrel for it, have used it for hunting in 'slug only' deer areas. Right now though it is wearing an 18 inch 'home defense' lenght barrel. Edit. And a Ruger 10-22, don't use it for hunting but for fun shooting. And a Mosin Nagant, but not for hunting And a couple handguns.
  11. I have had a bit more success with the rifle when I try and aim the barrel at the critter. (I assume the bullet will hit right at the base of the sight, not at the tip as is most common real life riflery.) How did you utilize the sights for your long range kill shot?
  12. I'd love to be able to chuck just a regular stick! Might not be as perfect as a custom crafted throwing stick, but good enough. Would also throw them at wolf and bear for a small chance of scaring it off.
  13. a chain link fence is going to deflect a 303 bullet if it hits any of the links. It's power would mean it would make a bigger impact, do more damage, but absolutely would not punch through and keep going straight the way it would through a paper target.